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AP Road Trip: Amid American Rancor, A Dash of Utah Nice

The Utah State Capitol is illuminated against the setting sun in Salt Lake City, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. Utah is a place where right-wing Republicans have fought for the rights of undocumented immigrants and deeply religious legislators have enacted some of the nation’s strongest protections for gays and lesbians. Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

The Utah State Capitol is illuminated against the setting sun in Salt Lake City, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. Utah is a place where right-wing Republicans have fought for the rights of undocumented immigrants and deeply religious legislators have enacted some of the nation’s strongest protections for gays and lesbians. Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Jim Dabakis, a former Democratic state senator, listens during an interview in his home in Salt Lake City, Saturday, Nov. 14, 2020. Dabakis said he never faced a harsh word from a Republican during his years in office, but he said they still worked to quash pretty much every progressive bill he backed. Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Jim Dabakis, a former Democratic state senator, is shown in his home in Salt Lake City, Saturday, Nov. 14, 2020. Dabakis said he never faced a harsh word from a Republican during his years in office, but he said they still worked to quash pretty much every progressive bill he backed. Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

The Moroni statue on top of the Oquirrh Mountain Temple of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints is silhouetted against the sky in South Jordan, Utah, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. While the church has traditionally been overwhelmingly conservative and Republican, today there's also an increasingly large strain of liberal members. The church has also begun to directly address its history of racism, including a ban on Black priests that it lifted four decades ago. Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

The Moroni statue on top of the Oquirrh Mountain Temple of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints is silhouetted against the sky in South Jordan, Utah, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. While the church has traditionally been overwhelmingly conservative and Republican, today there's also an increasingly large strain of liberal members. The church has also begun to directly address its history of racism, including a ban on Black priests that it lifted four decades ago. Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

The interior of the Utah State Capitol in Salt Lake City is photographed on Monday, Nov. 16, 2020. When it comes to politics, Utah has long claimed things are different here. Political viciousness is for other places, many politicians will tell you. Legislators are more polite, more willing to compromise. The deep conservatism, the folklore says, includes a powerful strain of compassion. Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

The interior of the Utah State Capitol in Salt Lake City is shown on Monday, Nov. 16, 2020. When it comes to politics, Utah has long claimed things are different here. Political viciousness is for other places, many politicians will tell you. Legislators are more polite, more willing to compromise. The deep conservatism, the folklore says, includes a powerful strain of compassion. Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Surrounded by coronavirus barriers, staff members test the sound system of the House chamber of the Utah State Capitol in Salt Lake City. Tuesday, Nov. 17, 2020. When it comes to politics, Utah has long claimed things are different here. Political viciousness is for other places, many politicians will tell you. Legislators are more polite, more willing to compromise. The deep conservativism, the folklore says, includes a powerful strain of compassion. Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Surrounded by coronavirus barriers, staff members test the sound system of the House chamber of the Utah State Capitol in Salt Lake City. Tuesday, Nov. 17, 2020. Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Sister Palmer, 19, holds The Book of Mormon while walking around Temple Square in Salt Lake City, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. Palmer, a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, is serving an 18-month mission in Salt Lake City while waiting for her visa to continue the mission in Spain. Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Sister Palmer, 19, holds The Book of Mormon while walking around Temple Square in Salt Lake City, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. Palmer, a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, is serving an 18-month mission in Salt Lake City while waiting for her visa to continue the mission in Spain. Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Jim Dabakis, a former Democratic state senator, sits with his dog at home in Salt Lake City, Saturday, Nov. 14, 2020. Dabakis said he never faced a harsh word from a Republican during his years in office, but he said they still worked to quash pretty much every progressive bill he backed. Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Jim Dabakis, a former Democratic state senator, sits with his dog at home in Salt Lake City, Saturday, Nov. 14, 2020. Dabakis said he never faced a harsh word from a Republican during his years in office, but he said they still worked to quash pretty much every progressive bill he backed. Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Sheryl Ellsworth, 37, kisses her 19-month old son, Hamilton, held by her husband, Matthew Ellsworth, 39, at their home in South Jordan, Utah on Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. Ellsworth said people are regularly surprised to discover that she's a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Sheryl Ellsworth, 37, kisses her 19-month-old son, Hamilton, held by her husband, Matthew Ellsworth, 39, at their home in South Jordan, Utah, on Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. Ellsworth said people are regularly surprised to discover that she's a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints speak to tourists around Temple Square in Salt Lake City, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. While the church has traditionally been overwhelmingly conservative and Republican, today there's also an increasingly large strain of liberal members. The church has also begun to directly address its history of racism, including a ban on Black priests that it lifted four decades ago. Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Members of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints speak to tourists around Temple Square in Salt Lake City, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Homes line up against the backdrop of snow capped mountains in South Jordan, Utah, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. Founded by believers in what was then a small, fringe religion, Utah was then lost in the desolation of mountains and deserts, and viewed with suspicion by much of America. The insularity that resulted has been fading over the past few decades, but it's still a place intensely proud of its own distinctiveness. Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Homes line up against the backdrop of snow capped mountains in South Jordan, Utah, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. Founded by believers in what was then a small, fringe religion, Utah was then lost in the desolation of mountains and deserts, and viewed with suspicion by much of America. The insularity that resulted has been fading over the past few decades, but it's still a place intensely proud of its own distinctiveness. Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Sheryl Ellsworth, 37, poses for a portrait at her home in South Jordan, Utah on Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. Ellsworth says, “Utah feels so homogenous that if you’re an ounce of different -- at all -- whether it’s racially, politically, maybe you are a progressive feminist, whatever it is, you feel SO different,” Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Sheryl Ellsworth, 37, is shown at her home in South Jordan, Utah, on Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. Ellsworth says, “Utah feels so homogenous that if you’re an ounce of different — at all — whether it’s racially, politically, maybe you are a progressive feminist, whatever it is, you feel SO different.” Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Girls run past the Utah State Capitol in Salt Lake City, Monday, Nov. 16, 2020. When it comes to politics, Utah has long claimed things are different here. Political viciousness is for other places, many politicians will tell you. Legislators are more polite, more willing to compromise. The deep conservatism, the folklore says, includes a powerful strain of compassion. Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Girls run past the Utah State Capitol in Salt Lake City, Monday, Nov. 16, 2020. When it comes to politics, Utah has long claimed things are different here. Political viciousness is for other places, many politicians will tell you. Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Rep. Robert Spendlove speaks during an interivew in the Utah State Capital Salt Lake City. Tuesday, Nov. 17, 2020. Spendlove, a Republican economist and proud policy wonk who spent years working in Washington and left unimpressed. "In Utah we really do have a sense of wanting to work together, to try to focus on shared interests and our policy objectives." Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

Rep. Robert Spendlove is shown in the Utah State Capitol in Salt Lake City, Tuesday, Nov. 17, 2020. Spendlove, a Republican economist and proud policy wonk who spent years working in Washington and left unimpressed, said ,"In Utah we really do have a sense of wanting to work together, to try to focus on shared interests and our policy objectives." Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

A U.S. flag flies against the mountains in Bountiful, Utah, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. Founded by believers in what was then a small, fringe religion, Utah was then lost in the desolation of mountains and deserts, and viewed with suspicion by much of America. The insularity that resulted has been fading over the past few decades, but it's still a place intensely proud of its own distinctiveness. Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

A U.S. flag flies against the mountains in Bountiful, Utah, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

The Salt Lake Temple of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints is seen under construction in Salt Lake City, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. While the church has traditionally been overwhelmingly conservative and Republican, today there's also an increasingly large strain of liberal members. The church has also begun to directly address its history of racism, including a ban on Black priests that it lifted four decades ago. Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

The Salt Lake Temple of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints is seen under construction in Salt Lake City, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

The Salt Lake Temple of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints is seen in a reflection in Salt Lake City, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. While the church has traditionally been overwhelmingly conservative and Republican, today there's also an increasingly large strain of liberal members. The church has also begun to directly address its history of racism, including a ban on Black priests that it lifted four decades ago. Image by Wong Maye-E / AP Photo. United States, 2020.

The Salt Lake Temple of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints is seen in a reflection in Salt Lake City, Sunday, Nov. 15, 2020. Image by Wong Maye-E/AP Photo. United States, 2020.

In one of the most corrosive presidential campaigns in recent American history, Utah’s top candidates for governor made a television commercial together.

It wasn’t your typical political ad.

On one side of the screen was Chris Peterson, the Democratic candidate, an affable man looking earnestly into the camera. On the other was Spencer Cox, his Republican opponent, with a similar expression.

They cheerfully acknowledged that they disagree on many things, but then added something unusual for America in 2020.

“Win or lose, in Utah we work together,” said Peterson, who would be crushed in the November elections.

“Let’s show the country there’s a better way,” said Cox, who, soon after his victory, criticized Republicans for attacks on the elections’ legitimacy.

When it comes to politics, Utah has long claimed things are different here.

Political viciousness is for other places, politicians will tell you. Legislators are more polite, more willing to compromise.

It might make you wonder: With U.S. politics so divided, could this idiosyncratic state in the heart of the Rockies show America a better way?

Ehhhhhhh. Sort of.

***

Salt Lake City turned out to be the end of the AP’s road trip. Three of us have been trying to make sense of a year wracked by coronavirus, economic devastation, sometimes-violent protests and an election campaign that ended with President Donald Trump, the clear loser, insisting he had won.

The year had offered so little good news.

So we came to Utah, hoping.

It didn’t take much poking around to realize that the state’s reputation — overwhelmingly white, overwhelmingly Republican, dominated by a cultural conservatism inherited from the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints — was only part of the story.

The other part is a surprising political complexity and slowly changing demographics. Utah, it turns out, is a place where right-wing Republicans have fought for undocumented immigrants and deeply religious legislators have enacted strong protections for gays and lesbians.

It is one of America’s most conservative states, but has one of its most liberal cities: Salt Lake City, with its throngs of Democrats and array of hipsters.

What is going on?

“I really do think it’s different in Utah,” said state Rep. Robert Spendlove, a Republican economist. “In Utah we really do have a sense of wanting to work together.”

“There are levels of civility, of decorum, that are unique to the culture of the state,” said state Sen. Luz Escamilla, a Democrat.

But Utah culture also includes a powerful streak of conformist perfectionism, and generations here have faced the pressure of living up to a mythological ideal: the happy family with a string of polite, hard-working children.

So some of that outward political civility is what people around here call Utah Nice, where viciousness can be hidden behind a fake smile and a batch of fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies.

Jim Dabakis, a former Democratic state senator, said he never faced a harsh word from a Republican during his years in office — but he said they still worked to quash pretty much every progressive bill he backed.

“This is a society of very passively aggressive people,” he said.

He argues that Republicans’ crushing majorities in the state House and Senate and longtime control of the governor’s office have warped Utah’s politics.

“It is simply one party that is in total, complete, absolute control and then saying, ‘We all get along so well,’” Dabakis said.

But it’s also complicated.

“The Utah Nice thing, it can be superficial, but there can also be substance to it: It’s a method of getting from A to Z,” said Brian King, the Democratic House minority leader.

In many ways, the overwhelmingly white, male and Mormon legislature doesn’t reflect the changing state. Utah is no longer a cliché of homogeneity. It has an increasingly large Latino population and growing numbers of other racial minorities, as well as ever more non-church members.

It’s no melting pot — the state is still roughly 81% white and 62% Mormon — but that’s down considerably from a couple decades ago.

Utah has become harder to pigeonhole, culturally and politically.

While it’s more conservative than much of the U.S., it has very strong LGBTQ worker and housing protections. Polls show Utah has some of America’s highest public support for LGBTQ-protection laws — including among Mormons.

The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, which did much to mold the state’s ethos, also has become harder to pigeonhole.

While the church has traditionally been overwhelmingly conservative and Republican, today there are increasing numbers of liberal members. The church has also begun to directly address its history of racism, including a ban on Black priests it lifted decades ago.

The church’s history — believers arrived here in the 1800s fleeing religious persecution — also helps explain why many conservative Utahns are staunch defenders of immigrants and refugee rights.

This year, as the political atmosphere grew ever more virulent, the church urged followers to avoid partisan rancor.

***

Rancor was what we expected to see when we set across America, and there was no lack of it. We found racial tensions in an Illinois “sundown town” where Black people were once welcome only by daylight, and in rural Mississippi, where they still face obstacles to voting; we found distrust and discontent in Appalachian Ohio.

We also found Americans who struggled valiantly — two women building a family amid poverty; a Black man willing his wife from her COVID-induced coma.

In Utah, we found something else: A place that seems to work — but perhaps only because it is Utah.

Founded by believers in what was then a small, fringe religion, Utah was then lost in mountain desolation, and widely viewed with suspicion.

The insularity that resulted has faded, but it’s still a place marked by its own distinctiveness.

Sometimes that means politicians more willing to get along. And sometimes it means the platitudes of Utah Nice.

So King can celebrate legislators finding common ground even as he grumbles about political superficiality.

That’s Utah, he said: “It’s not black and white.”