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The Remote Arctic Town That Is Melting Away

November 12, 2018 | BBC
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Photographs by Anna Filipova. Words by Anna Filipova and Amanda Ruggeri.
Greenland’s Qaanaaq, one of the world’s northernmost towns, is among the world’s first casualties in the battle against climate change. Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

Greenland’s Qaanaaq, one of the world’s northernmost towns, is among the world’s first casualties in the battle against climate change. Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

Many of the town’s 650 inhabitants live on permafrost – ground that remains at sub-zero degrees Celsius for two or more consecutive years. Historically, permafrost has provided a solid foundation for buildings and infrastructure in the Arctic. But as the temperature has warmed, the ground has become less capable of supporting Qaanaaq’s homes, which can become dangerous to inhabit. Other Arctic towns are built in permafrost areas, too. But they’re built on rock. Established in the 1950s before climate change was a consideration, Qaanaaq, meanwhile, is the only town in Greenland built on finer material: clay, silt and sand. "Unlike rock, these sediments contain water, which poses a major challenge," says the University of Copenhagen's Sebastian Zastruzny, who has been studying permafrost in the region for several years. "When the ground freezes and then thaws, it moves up and down – causing houses and infrastructure to sink, slide and collapse." Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

Many of the town’s 650 inhabitants live on permafrost – ground that remains at sub-zero degrees Celsius for two or more consecutive years. Historically, permafrost has provided a solid foundation for buildings and infrastructure in the Arctic. But as the temperature has warmed, the ground has become less capable of supporting Qaanaaq’s homes, which can become dangerous to inhabit.

Other Arctic towns are built in permafrost areas, too. But they’re built on rock. Established in the 1950s before climate change was a consideration, Qaanaaq, meanwhile, is the only town in Greenland built on finer material: clay, silt and sand. "Unlike rock, these sediments contain water, which poses a major challenge," says the University of Copenhagen's Sebastian Zastruzny, who has been studying permafrost in the region for several years. "When the ground freezes and then thaws, it moves up and down – causing houses and infrastructure to sink, slide and collapse." Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

Changes in the permafrost have damaged the home of local resident Orla Kleist. His living room and bathroom have developed cracks in the wall. In the bathroom, the floor has become so uneven from the house sinking that the tiles are breaking; in his kitchen, shown here, the walls have cracked so much that air flows in. Many residents have resorted to taping the cracks in their homes to try to keep out the cold and damp. The freezing and thawing cycles are likely to only get more frequent. So far in 2018, Greenland experienced days when the temperature was up to 23C (41F) higher than the 1958-2002 average, an event that the data shows is becoming more common across the northernmost part of the Arctic. Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

Changes in the permafrost have damaged the home of local resident Orla Kleist. His living room and bathroom have developed cracks in the wall. In the bathroom, the floor has become so uneven from the house sinking that the tiles are breaking; in his kitchen, shown here, the walls have cracked so much that air flows in. Many residents have resorted to taping the cracks in their homes to try to keep out the cold and damp.

The freezing and thawing cycles are likely to only get more frequent. So far in 2018, Greenland experienced days when the temperature was up to 23C (41F) higher than the 1958-2002 average, an event that the data shows is becoming more common across the northernmost part of the Arctic. Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

While average temperatures globally have increased by about 1C (1.8F), near the North Pole, the warming has been closer to 3C (5.4F). Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

While average temperatures globally have increased by about 1C (1.8F), near the North Pole, the warming has been closer to 3C (5.4F). Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

Imports arrive only twice a year, and Qaanaaq is the one of the last towns in Greenland where people survive by hunting on sea ice – which is rapidly disappearing. Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

Imports arrive only twice a year, and Qaanaaq is the one of the last towns in Greenland where people survive by hunting on sea ice – which is rapidly disappearing. Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

Since 1979, when satellite records began, the 12 worst years in terms of Arctic sea ice cover have all occurred since 2007. Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

Since 1979, when satellite records began, the 12 worst years in terms of Arctic sea ice cover have all occurred since 2007. Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

In September 2018, there was 26.6% less ice coverage in the Arctic, referring to the area of ice measured by square kilometres, than the 1981-2010 average. This is a trend: 2017 was 24.8% below average, 2016 was 29.4% below average and 2015 28% below average. Ice thickness has been declining too. From 1980 to 2008 alone, the Arctic’s sea ice lost nearly half its thickness on average, falling from 3.64m to 1.89m. “Each year, the conditions on the sea ice are different,” says Jorgen Umaq, a local hunter. Because warming temperatures mean the sea ice is no longer as thick as it used to be, he says, hunters have had to change their long-held hunting routes and can’t travel as far as they could before. The hunting season in Qaanaaq also has got shorter each year.Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

In September 2018, there was 26.6% less ice coverage in the Arctic, referring to the area of ice measured by square kilometres, than the 1981-2010 average. This is a trend: 2017 was 24.8% below average, 2016 was 29.4% below average and 2015 28% below average.

Ice thickness has been declining too. From 1980 to 2008 alone, the Arctic’s sea ice lost nearly half its thickness on average, falling from 3.64m to 1.89m.

“Each year, the conditions on the sea ice are different,” says Jorgen Umaq, a local hunter. Because warming temperatures mean the sea ice is no longer as thick as it used to be, he says, hunters have had to change their long-held hunting routes and can’t travel as far as they could before. The hunting season in Qaanaaq also has got shorter each year.  Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

People have lost their lives on the sea ice. But despite its increasing dangers, some hunters still camp there during the hunting season. Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

People have lost their lives on the sea ice. But despite its increasing dangers, some hunters still camp there during the hunting season. Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

As well as for hunting, Qaanaaq’s residents must brave the sea ice to get potable water. During the summer months, they get their water from a nearby river. But during winter it is simply too cold for the river to flow. Instead, they collect icebergs, bringing them to a special facility where the ice is melted and distributed to all of Qaanaaq’s houses by a water tanker. This means that even the simple task of collecting fresh water has become more dangerous. Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

As well as for hunting, Qaanaaq’s residents must brave the sea ice to get potable water. During the summer months, they get their water from a nearby river. But during winter it is simply too cold for the river to flow. Instead, they collect icebergs, bringing them to a special facility where the ice is melted and distributed to all of Qaanaaq’s houses by a water tanker.

This means that even the simple task of collecting fresh water has become more dangerous.  Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

“The situation here isn’t new and surely can’t get any worse,” say Inukitsorsuaq and Genovira Sadorana, a local couple who rely on hunting for their livelihoods. But the science shows that, unfortunately, this may be optimistic. And as the climate changes, it isn’t just their homes and landscape that are at risk – it is their customs, cultural identity and very survival. Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

“The situation here isn’t new and surely can’t get any worse,” say Inukitsorsuaq and Genovira Sadorana, a local couple who rely on hunting for their livelihoods.

But the science shows that, unfortunately, this may be optimistic. And as the climate changes, it isn’t just their homes and landscape that are at risk – it is their customs, cultural identity and very survival.  Image by Anna Filipova. Greenland, 2018.

As the Arctic loses ice at dramatic rates, people in Qaanaaq, the northernmost town in Greenland, are finding their homes, livelihoods, customs and very survival at risk.